Searching For The Lost Waterfalls Of Boquete
PANAMA
10 August 2018
Searching For The Lost Waterfalls Of Boquete
Something caught my eye as I craned my neck back to take a gulp of water. A second glance confirmed what I’d first thought and I froze on the spot. Time seemed to stand still as the coral snake nonchalantly continued its sideways journey across the dirt track right in front of me towards the long grass to my right.
I grabbed my camera and frantically tried to get off a shot before it disappeared altogether. But to no avail. Remembering to take off the lens cap in a moment of pressure was clearly a step too far for this would-be adventurer.
And so my hike to find the “lost waterfalls” of Boquete began.
A hike that would find me climbing up through thick jungle via a steep, muddy and rocky trail, occasionally aided by ropes. A hike that was undoubtedly one of the most taxing I’ve ever done. But one where the payoff of three beautiful waterfalls surrounded by jungle dripping with every hue of green imaginable was more than worth the effort.
Located just outside Panama’s backpacker and ex-pat hub of Boquete up in the coffee-growing mountains of Chiriquí Province, the lost waterfalls aren’t really “lost” at all, of course. “Hidden waterfalls” would probably be a better description.
But let’s not quibble over semantics.
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Contents
Fortunately, my new-found buddy patiently waited long enough for me to take a photo…
Starting off
It all started after finding the trailhead and then crossing the Rio Caldera on a small suspension bridge before quickly ascending steeply up a boulder-clad track and series of steps. If there was a clue as to what exertions lay ahead then this was definitely it.
Soon I arrived at a plateau where a carefully tended garden stretched out in front of a log cabin, taking in world-class views across to Panama’s highest point, Volcan Baru. It was here I had to hand over my $7 entrance fee.
Compared to other hikes in the area this was as steep as the hill I’d just spent 15 minutes walking up. The trail is actually on private land and the fee is ostensibly used for its maintenance. And as I perused the only map of the trail, which was attached to a clipboard, I couldn’t help thinking that my $7 could go a long way towards providing one you could actually read.
A quick check of the map and suddenly everything becomes clear…
Waterfall 1
So, off I went on the first leg of my quest to discover the elusive waterfalls.
The guy at the gate had suggested (and indeed the map did, too) that I somehow skip Waterfall 1 and head straight to Waterfalls 2 and 3. The reasoning apparently being that the first one is the best and should be saved until last.
That didn’t sit well with my OCD however, so I decided to advance strictly in numerical order.
I know. Anarchist.
The walk there was indeed a beautiful one, despite my snake encounter. First, through open bush with further views behind towards Volcan Baru and then into the jungle proper. Suddenly, instead of walking amidst grand mountain vistas I was surrounded by huge ferns, hanging moss-covered vines and monstrously-sized leaves.
After taking a right at a fork, the trail descended as the roaring sound of the first waterfall soon approached. And when it came into full view it was everything I’d hoped it would be.
Directly ahead of the trail, a huge stone wall covered with foliage played host to a single-drop fall that plunged into a deep canyon below. I looked for a way down to its base for a closer look but that proved impossible. So instead, I made the most of my time alone to enjoy what seemed to me like a hypnotic slice of jungle paradise. Where the only sounds were the persistent calls of the forest and the plummeting river.
A lost waterfall indeed.
And then it was time to move on deeper into the jungle. The lung-busting steps that led up from the waterfall eventually brought me back on to the main trail. And that was by now on a distinctively upward trajectory.
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Waterfall 2
The steeper trail coincided with a marked deterioration in conditions. In addition to negotiating rocks and huge tree roots, the mud began to appear at more regular intervals. Not surprising really as this was the middle of Panama’s rainy season (August).
Nevertheless, as Waterfall 1 disappeared from view to my right, it wasn’t long before Number 2 beckoned me with its equally thunderous call.
Considerably wider than the first one, its cascading plume of water was much more uniform in shape. And, dare I say it, was actually more impressive than its forebear. And, this time, it was easy to just walk to its base and look up in awe.
The pool at its base was an inviting one. But, unprepared as always, my backpack was a swimming-gear-free-zone. And jungle skinny-dipping wasn’t something I was prepared to unleash on any fellow waterfall-chaser who might pass by.
So, after checking out a nearby cave, I took the rope-enabled trail to the top of the waterfall and stepped out on to the rocky precipice. Holding back the vertigo whilst triple-checking my footing on the slippery rocks, I stood there for a while to drink in the incredible view over the jungle canopy to distant Volcan Baru.
Once again, without anybody else around, it felt as if I’d truly found something special. I’m sure that in the high season (between December and March) this spot wouldn’t be so tranquil. But right then, at that moment, it seemed like this jungle wilderness was just mine to discover.
My first view of Waterfall 2 from a few yards down-river
A closer view of the waterfall with its neighbouring cave on the left
The view from the top
Waterfall 3
Things started to get very serious when I set off again in search of Waterfall 3. This was by far the most challenging section of the trail and it’s one that many don’t even attempt. No wonder given the steep, muddy conditions and a not-so-obvious route at times.
The jungle began to thicken and I became aware of the foliage closing in around me. Of particular concern was the warning I’d received about looking out for snakes in the trees rather than on the ground. So not only was I searching for firm ground to step on but my eyes were at the same time looking around for signs of slithery movement above.
But there was no way this adventure was going to end early so I stoically continued my way up through the jungle until, at last, I arrived at the end point of the trail and another stunning waterfall.
This time it was more about the sense of achievement in getting there rather than seeing the waterfall itself. It was also an opportune moment to rest and regain my strength while the spray from the falls provided a welcome cool down.
Of course, the route back down proved to be something of a challenge, too. Trying to pick solid pieces of rock and tree root to step on was at times no easy task amidst all that mud. And especially with tired legs.
But thankfully, the regular late-morning/early-afternoon rain that soaks this part of Panama for much of the year didn’t materialise and I was able to descend without any major mishaps.
Final thoughts and getting there
It had been an exhilarating three hours-or-so in the jungle and one that I can thoroughly recommend to anyone visiting Boquete, or even Panama generally. And, in retrospect, $7 was was a small price to pay to spend a morning hiking through such magical surroundings. And visiting during the low season meant that there were very few other people around and the waterfalls were at their best.
To get there from Boquete, you can either catch the local bus ($3) and then walk to the trailhead from the dropoff point – it’s situated along a road signposted for the Sendero Los Quetzales Trail. Or you can hail a taxi for approximately $8 and be dropped off right outside the trailhead.
It’s possible to do the hike as part of a guided tour. And I’m sure there are advantages in doing so – particularly when it comes to spotting wildlife. But, for me, there’s nothing quite like the thrill of exploring under your own steam.
And the lost waterfalls of Boquete provide a perfect way to find out just how much of an explorer you really are.
Boquete
The Lost Waterfalls
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What did you think? Have you been hiking in Boquete? Or perhaps you’re thinking of visiting there soon? Either way, we’d love to hear from you so please add your comments below.
Thanks for reading
Hi, we're Ian and Nicky, an English couple on a voyage of discovery around the world, and this blog is designed to reflect what we see, think and do. Actually, we'd like to think it also provides information, entertainment and inspiration for other “mature” travellers, too. So please feel free to pour yourself a glass of something suitably chilled and take a look around.
We did the first part of this hike to the ranger station in November of 2018 and I remember that map! I also had the same thoughts on how it could be more informative. We did not continue as we had just completed the summit of Baru and our legs were still sore, but I enjoyed jumping on the suspension bridge and meeting the neighbors dogs who kept us company during the downpour. Great pictures and story telling!
Thank you, Lisa! We didn’t make it to Baru, unfortunately. I think we were waiting for the perfect weather opportunity to do it and ended up missing it altogether. Lesson learned!
My family lived in Panama for 4 years, but I was very young at it was a very, very long time ago, I remember the canal and the islands off the coast, but not Boquete which my parents said we visited. I have a friend that has a condo down there and she says there are a lot of expats, looks like a spot I need to go back and check out!
Yes, lots of expats in Boquete. It’s really green and lush, definitely worth a visit ????
I have never done such hike but it really looks beautiful to along the green forest and to find the “lost waterfalls” of Boquete. It is really adventurous to climb up through thick jungle via a steep, muddy and rocky trail. But in the end it really paid you by having view of of three beautiful waterfalls surrounded by jungle.
It was definitely worth the effort!
Nice! I am going to Panama end of next summer. Have picked up a 2 and half week house sit in a small oceanside town near Morillo. Not near Boquete but I may have to venture there after as I have heard amazing things about the area. I was wondering how many miles was this trail? and do you have any idea how much elevation gain ? Beautiful area !!!
It’s not a long trail, Susan, but it can be steep and muddy which is where some people might struggle. From the road, it’s steep and rocky plus a series of steps to the Waterfalls trail entrance (1km maybe), then it’s a further 1km or so the first waterfall (some steep, some fairly flat). After that, Waterfalls 2 and 3 are not that far away but it does get very steep and muddy between 2 & 3 (including the need to pull yourself up via a rope). Total elevation gain? Not sure but I’m guessing 300-500m tops. It’s worth the effort though! If you do go to the Boquete area try Volcan/Cerro Punta on the other side of Volcan Baru, too.
I love waterfalls treks like this – is it OK to swim in them too?
You can’t swim in all of them, Kathi – in fact, you can’t get close enough to Waterfall #1 – but Waterfall #2 has a lovely pool for swimming. I’m hoping to go back at some point and give it a try!
What an awesome adventure! Sounds like a challenging hike! I love your videos of the waterfalls.
Thanks, Kaylene – to be honest, I think I was standing a bit too near the edge to get the first waterfall footage. It was only afterwards that I broke into a mild panic!
I really enjoyed reading this 🙂 I love waterfalls, especially with the added quest to find hidden falls as you describe.
Thanks Suzy! Yes, we never get tired of waterfalls!
These look beautiful! I would love to go here and see all of them!
Aren’t they just?! We never get tired of waterfalls, they’re just magical!
What a lovely blog full of a lovely vibe. Never been on my list, although may be it should. Kx
Definitely consider it! I don’t think you’d be disappointed ???? Thank you for reading.
Hi guys. I always get so immersed in your blogs, like you’re taking me on a personal journey with you. I think the threat of snakes would have beaten me, especially if they were up in the trees. Although like to think the adventurer in me would have prevailed. Kx
Thank you for stopping by Karen! Snakes are part of everyday life here in Panama – our neighbour discovered a deadly Fer de lance curled up on his patio a couple of weeks back…???? They aren’t really looking to bother you, unless you’re bothering them, and we’re extremely respectful! ????
Hi Ian & Nicky
What a lovely descriptive narrative of a trail I do every couple of weeks with my dog and know intimately. A good hiking challenge as well as wonderful nature as you describe.
You were lucky to catch a glimpse of the illusive coral, it was obviously in transit! I have only seen one in the year I’ve lived here cruising across a rocky road and disappearing into the undergrowth. Such glimpses are indeed a reminder of the wonderful garden of Eden in which we are privileged to live here in Panama.
Wishing you both safe and wonderous travels,
Fellow Brit and Boquete resident Peter Kaye,
Vista Volcan, Jaramillo
Thanks a lot, Peter. And what a way to spend a regular walk wth your dog! Hopefully, I’ll be making a return trip there soon, too. That snake encounter was my first in Panama but somehow I have a feeling it won’t be my last. Apparently, there’s a boa that lives in the woods at the bottom of our accommodation’s garden. And a huge tarantula crossed my path as I was on my morning walk yesterday, too – another first. A Garden of Eden indeed!
Loved the narrative start to the story and all the gorgeous photos! Like they said forget TLC, and do go chasing waterfalls!
Thanks so much, Rowena! To be honest, neither of us get tired of looking at waterfalls – but the jungle setting for these three made them unforgettable.
Nice post about our backyard. Enjoy Panama!
Thanks, John – and we will!