A Cornwall Road Trip Itinerary For The First Time Visitor

Stretching over 400 miles from Morwenstow on the north coast to Cawsand in the south, the Cornish coastline surrounds the extreme southwest peninsula of England, which points like an index finger into the Celtic Sea, with the Atlantic Ocean beyond.

In between, soaring cliffs, golden sandy beaches and surf-friendly waves are interspersed with historic fishing villages and disused tin mines.

Indeed, there are over 150 beaches, ranging from wide expanses of clean, golden sand in holiday hotspots such as Newquay and Bude to barely accessible rocky coves.

And, connecting them all, the South West Coast Path is a hiker’s paradise running all the way from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, some 630 miles away.

Not surprisingly, the area is extremely popular with tourists and families during the peak summer months, when the narrow country roads can get clogged with cars, caravans and campervans. Nevertheless, exploring the county by car or camper is undoubtedly the best way to get around. Unless, of course, you plan on walking the entire South West Coast Path.

So, in this Cornwall road trip itinerary, we’ll highlight some of best places to visit by road, along with some great places to eat and drink. And we’ll suggest some day walks on the South West Coast Path to enjoy while you’re at it.

(nb: distances quoted are one-way so double-up for the return leg or walk as far as you’re able before heading back).

Part One: Bude to Padstow

Bude

Very much a traditional English seaside resort, Bude is a bucket-and-spade family destination at heart. But it also attracts surfers and walkers in their thousands, drawn by the impressive waves and lung-busting coastal walks north and south of town.

Indeed, it was while in Bude that Ian was introduced to Cornwall as an 18-year-old; an experience that cemented some personal life lessons.

1. he was never going to master surfing; and
2. cheap Scrumpy Cider is the Devil’s Brew and should be avoided at all cost.

Bude’s two main beaches (Summerleaze and Crooklets) are clean and bookended by cliffs. And Summerleaze even has a walled sea pool for when the waves are too much of a challenge.

The coastline to the north is some of the most rugged in the county. Indeed, the walk along the cliffs from Crooklets Beach to Duckpool, via Maer Cliff and Sandymouth, is a spectacular one. Steep in parts, it takes in some fabulous coastal views and is a great introduction to what the South West Coastal Path has to offer.

Afterwards, head to The Barrel At Bude (Thursday to Sunday only) for local beers, live music and a unique atmosphere. The place is tiny, with just a few tables and chairs inside and out. But the hosts are super-friendly and you’ll be made to feel very welcome.

South West Coast Path: North to Duckpool (3.5 miles / 1h 30m) or south to Widemouth Beach (3 miles / 1 h).

Boscastle & Tintagel

Separated by five miles or so of the South West Coast Path, these two historic settlements are worth at least a day or two of your time.

Set in a natural harbour, the tiny fishing village of Boscastle inspired many of Thomas Hardy’s novels and poems. It came to the attention of most Brits only when it was devastated by severe flooding in 2004. Since then, it has largely relied on tourism to help it recover.

After leaving your car in the main car park (which dwarfs the village itself), take a stroll around the village centre before heading off along the harbour to the headland at Warren Point. From there the South West Coast Path continues to Tintagel, passing old cliff-edge slate quarries, offshore islands and shaded coves. It’s a moderately tough five-mile hike so walking there and back might be a stretch too far. However, you can catch a bus back to Boscastle from Tintagel Visitor Centre.

Alternatively, drive to Tintagel and park at the car park just before the trail to the village’s main claim to fame – its association with the legend of King Arthur.

Whether you believe that King Arthur existed or not, it’s easy to get wrapped up in the whole legend while visiting Tintagel’s island and King Arthur’s statue. Although, according to English Heritage who commissioned the eight-foot bronze image in 2016, the statue is called Gallos (from the Cornish word for “power”) and represents the general royal heritage of the site rather than any one King. But, if you ask us, that pointy thing he’s holding looks suspiciously like Excalibur.

Nearby Tintagel Brewery is a great place for lunch or dinner. With a full range of beers on handpump and brewery tours available, too.

South West Coast Path: North towards Boscastle (5.5 miles  2h 30m) or south to Trebarwith Beach and Backways Cove (2.7 miles / 1h).

Port Isaac

From Tintagel it’s a nine-mile drive to Port Isaac. Another atmospheric fishing village, it served as a location for the BBC TV series, Poldark.

And it’s everything you’d imagine a Cornish fishing village to be. Narrow streets lined with colourful cottages that wind down the hillside. Although, in addition to the welcoming aroma of freshly caught crab, the ever-present homemade signs betray a world-weariness from locals towards tourists and their inconsiderate parking habits.

For a great view of the village in its natural setting, take a short walk along the coast path to Bert Large’s Chair on the headland opposite the harbour. And if you’ve yet to taste a traditional Cornish pasty, make sure you call in at Nicky B’s Pasty Shop (opposite The Golden Lion pub).

South West Coast Path: North towards Tregardock Beach or south to Port Quin (3.5 miles / 1h 30m).

Rock & Padstow

A further eight miles by road from Port Isaac, Rock sits on the Camel Estuary and directly opposite its more famous neighbour, Padstow. It’s a fairly upmarket village with higher-end accommodation and restaurants.

The main attraction here is the lovely spit of sand at high tide. And there’s easy access, via the south coast path, to Polzeath Beach (3.5 miles / 1h 20m).

Meanwhile, Padstow is a lovely fishing village-cum-fine dining destination. Largely on the back of native celebrity chef Rick Stein, whose name and influence are everywhere. But also Michelin-starred chef, Paul Ainsworth. Both of whom have restaurants in town. As a result, it gets packed to the rafters during the summer months. And parking is a nightmare, too.

But don’t let that put you off. The smart choice is to leave your car over in Rock and take the ferry across. It typically runs every 20 minutes, seven days a week (except Sundays during winter months).

Once you’re there, take a stroll around the harbour and village. Try a Cornish pasty from one of the five village bakeries (The Cornish Pasty Co would be our recommendation). Or go for the fish and chips at Rick Stein’s place.

North of the village, the coast path leads to Harbour Cove (1.5 miles / 30 mins) at the mouth of the Camel Estuary. It’s a wide and often windswept expanse of golden sand surrounded by grassy dunes and farmland. And the views across the estuary to Rock and its beaches are superb.

Part Two: Padstow to St Ives

Constantine Bay & Trevose Head

The coastline just south of Padstow is well worth exploring before you head on much further. Starting at Constantine Bay, the Trevose Headland Walk hugs the cliffs from where, on a clear day, it’s possible to see along the full length of the north Cornish coastline.

It’s also notable for a curious 80-foot sinkhole that suddenly crashes through the headland to the sea below (similar to another one a few miles north at Trevone Bay). Indeed, the footpath passes beside it without any warning – which would make walking here at dusk potentially treacherous, to say the least.

South West Coast Path: Constantine Bay Car Park to Long Cove Beach, via Trevose Head (2.6 miles / 1 h)

The Bedruthan Steps

Next, drive five miles south to the National Trust car park for Carnewas at Bedruthan (aka The Bedruthan Steps). Located in one of the most spectacular sections of the entire Cornish coastline, it’s a series of sea stacks which become fully exposed at low tide. And, like elsewhere along the coast, can be seen lurking in the background behind the lacy frocks, breeches and three-cornered hats of the BBC period drama, Poldark.

If you have the time, you could continue the cliff and sea stack walk all the way to Porthcothan Bay (3 miles / 1h 10m).

Newquay

Your next stop is Newquay, Bude’s busier and rowdier cousin. Once again, the expansive beaches are family-friendly, the waves attract surfers from afar, and the town has enough pubs, bars, restaurants and cafés to keep most holidaymakers happy for a week or two.

The best coastal walk is south of town, starting at Crantock Beach and finishing at Holywell Bay (3.5 miles / 1h 20m). The beaches along the way are superb. And the dramatic coastline features in the HBO series, House of the Dragon.

St Agnes

To be honest, we prefer our Cornish seaside resorts a bit more relaxed. Such as laid-back St Agnes, just 11 miles further on from Newquay.

Park in the St Agnes Head car park and make your way to the coast path, turning south to Chapel Porth Beach.

Along the way, you’ll come across remnants of Cornwall’s tin mining industry, which employed 30,000 men at its peak during the 19th Century. The remains of those heady days are dotted along Cornwall’s northern coastline in the form of disused mining shafts and abandoned engine pumping houses – now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Wheal Coates is one of the most photographed. And it’s not hard to see why with its dramatic moorland setting overlooking the cliffs. This section of the path is particularly beautiful during the summer and early autumn months because of the displays of heather and gorse, along with other wildflowers carpeting the hillside.

South West Coast Path: From Trevaunance Cove south to Chapel Porth Beach, via Wheal Coates (3 miles / 1h 10m) or north to Cligga Head (2.5 miles / 1h 5m).

Back in the village, head for The Driftwood Spars pub. Aside from the fact that it sounds like a great name for a rock band, it also brews its own beer. The building itself dates back to the 1650’s when its construction included using enormous beams (spars) salvaged from nearby shipwrecks.

Godrevy Beach

From St Agnes, it’s a further 13 miles south to our next destination.

Another glorious expanse of golden sand, the magnificent Godrevy Beach spills over into nearby Gwithian Beach at low tide. There’s a National Trust car park for easy access, but at £8 (2024 price) for a full day, it’s an expensive option (as National Trust car parks always are). If you’re lucky you’ll find a space in one of the laybays on the nearby B3301 instead.

St Ives

A further 10 miles south you’ll reach beautiful St Ives – once a medieval fishing village now transformed into one of England’s premier seaside destinations. It even caught the whiff of international acclaim when it hosted the G7 Summit in 2021.

During the summer, the place is overrun with visitors, even though it’s considered the most expensive resort in England. And the backlash from Cornish locals against “outsiders’ buying up property as second homes (thereby driving up prices even further) doesn’t get any fiercer than it does here.

Like in Padstow, driving and parking are for chaos enthusiasts only. We suggest parking the car in nearby St Erth and taking the 10-minute scenic railway into town instead. Once you’re there you’ll find lots of pubs, restaurants and boutique shops to explore. And no less than four golden sand beaches to choose from. All clustered around a quaint harbour where lobster pots and beached fishing boats are as common as bucket, spades and sand castles.

And, if you walk just 20 minutes south on the coastal path (as far as Clodgy Point), there are some great headland views back to the town.

Part Three: Land’s End to Lizard Point

Sennen Cove & Land’s End

The 20-mile B3306 coastal route heading south from St Ives passes beside Cornwall’s wildest (and least visited) stretch of coastline. With tin mines and beautiful moorland countryside to discover there are plenty of opportunities to stop and walk the coastal path.

Once you join the A30, you’ll be approaching Land’s End; probably Cornwall’s most famous attraction. And it’s the starting/ending point for the classic charity walk/cycle between Great Britain’s southwest and northeast extremities (the other being 874 miles away at John O’Groats in Scotland).

Not that there’s much there to see. Sure, the scenery is as captivating as many other places in Cornwall. And, if you’re up for some tacky commercialisation of a national landmark, you won’t be disappointed.

But mostly it represents a pilgrimage of sorts for domestic tourists eager to soak up mythical Arthurian tales of sunken kingdoms and family infighting. Or to at least return home with a photograph to show they’ve stood at the southwest extremity of mainland Britain. Just like countless thousands before them, who’ve gazed out over the cliffs and crashing waves towards the faint cliffs of the Scilly Isles beyond.

Most visitors rock up at the landmark’s dedicated car park and access the headland via the tourist village. But for a more visceral experience, we’d recommend making your way to nearby Sennen Cove instead and approaching Land’s End by walking along the coastal path.

South West coast path: Sennen Cove Harbour Car Park to Land’s End (1.2 miles / 30 min)

Porthcurno & Minack Theatre

Having reached Land’s End, our Cornwall road trip now heads along the southern coastline. Sheltered by the English Channel, it’s notable for its rias – deepwater harbours, such as those found at Falmouth and Fowey – and the cute fishing villages that have remained largely unchanged for decades.

Speaking of which, Porthcurno is the first of the fishing villages you’ll come across. Although it’s no longer sleepy, mainly because of its gorgeous family-friendly beach. And its proximity to the unique Minack Theatre.

Partly because of this, we’d recommend you leave your car in the spacious car park at Treen and walk back to Porthcurno along the coastal path. The views alone make it worthwhile.

From the car park, a trail heads down to Logan Rock. The name refers to a 90-tonne slab of granite that’s balanced on the tip of the headland. Nowadays it also takes in the surrounding remains of an Iron Age cliff fort. It takes a bit of scrambling to get to the very tip but the views westwards along the coast towards Porthcurno are just sublime; sea cliffs, golden beaches and THAT cliff-top open-air theatre.

There are plenty of beaches that can lay claim to being the best in Cornwall. But Pedn Vounder, which you’ll pass next along the coast path, is right up there with the very best. Accessed via a steep trail from the cliffs above, it’s popular with both naturists and marauding Poldark fans. Which makes for an intriguing combination.

After which you’ll arrive at Porthcurno’s beach. Head towards the cliffs on the opposite side of the bay to begin your climb to Minack Theatre.

It was the brainchild of one Rowena Cade, who turned her pre-war cliff-top garden into an impromptu setting for an amateur theatre production of The Tempest. And it was such a success that she, together with her trusted gardener, developed it into a full-scale theatre over the ensuing years. Nowadays it serves as both a functioning theatre and a tourist attraction for those who’d rather just wander around its unique setting.

Of course, if you’re lucky enough to be around when there’s a show, you’ll need to grab your tickets well in advance.

To return to Treen car park, take the more direct walking route via Treen Farm Campsite.

South West Coast Path: Treen Car Park to Minack Theatre, via Logan Rock (2 miles / 45m)

Mousehole & Penzance

Seven miles from Treen, Mousehole (pronounced “Mowsul”) is a historic fishing village and typical of those that dot the southern coastline – just a cluster of stone cottages connected by narrow, cobbled streets and gathered around a pretty harbour.

But, if you prefer somewhere a bit more lively, Penzance is a mere three miles further on. The name alone conjures up cinematic images of pirates and smugglers quaffing gallons of rum in a rowdy harbourside bar. The Admiral Benbow pub certainly plays up to that and more. Legend has it that, after a visit in 1880, the pub (or “illegal drinking den” as it was then) inspired Robert Louis Stephenson to include its name in his forthcoming “Treasure Island”.

A further three miles around the bay, Marazion Beach includes a causeway that can be walked across to St Michael’s Mount, a castle that sits on the top of a tidal island. Effectively, it’s the counterpart to Mont Saint-Michel, a similarly shaped island fortress in Normandy. Owned by The National Trust, there’s a £15 entrance fee (unless you have a National Trust membership) and access by foot is limited to four hours per day (because of the tides).

Lizard Point

From there we head south to the most southerly point on mainland Britain. Lizard Point feels like a sister location to Land’s End with its cliffs, off-shore sea stacks and lighthouse. Although this time without the huge car park and purpose-built visitor centre.

Parking can be a challenge in busy periods so if you want to claim your spot we suggest you arrive early in the day.

The walks along the coast path in both directions are worth doing from here.

East leads to Kynance Cove, another contender for Cornwall’s Best Beach. Its white sand contrasting with the offshore rock stacks and a turquoise sea, it rivals anything the Portuguese Algarve or Lisbon coasts can offer. Apart from the weather, naturally.

At low tide, the sea stacks become fully exposed. And there are caves to explore. Best of all, the views as you approach it from the cliffs of the coast path are suitably spectacular.

Heading west from Lizard Point, the path leads along the cliff-top to the gorgeous thatch-roofed fishing village of Cadgwith. With its hidden shingle beach at the head of a narrow lane running through the village, it was once a thriving smugglers’ cove. And, although those days have long gone, the village has remained largely unchanged for 300 years.

Indeed, the fishermen still land their boats directly on the beach. But where once their haul was a bountiful supply of pilchard, nowadays it’s primarily crab and lobster. Fresh crab sandwiches being something of a culinary speciality in the village.

We’d hoped to have one for lunch at the Cadgwith Cove Inn but it was closed when we were there. However, not to be outdone, we managed to pick one up from Cadgwith Cove Crab at the harbour. And, we can confirm, the sandwich was definitely a step up from having it filled with pilchard.

South West Coast Path: Lizard Point to Kynance Cove (2.6 miles / 1h); Lizard Point to Cadgwith (3.5 miles / 1h 30m).

Part Four: Falmouth to Kingsand

Falmouth

Retreating from the Lizard Peninsula, a 45-minute drive east arrives at Falmouth, another south coast harbour town with a rich maritime heritage. Which is not surprising given that it’s home to the third-largest deep water harbour in the world.

The big attraction is the National Maritime Museum with its five floors and fifteen galleries. But the town also has its fair share of bohemian staples such as art galleries, indie shops and bookstores. Typified by the Beerwolf Bookshop, a bar-cum-library where you can browse or buy a second-hand book while you relax with a glass of Cornish ale.

However, for a true Cornwall experience, combine a fish & chips takeaway from Harbour Lights Fish & Chips with a beer at The Front – an award-winning pub with outdoor benches facing the harbour (and where you’re welcome to take your own food).

Charlestown

Our next stop is about an hour’s drive north of Falmouth. And we promise, this will be our last mention of Poldark. But if there’s a better example of an archetypal “seafaring costume drama filming location” than the Georgian port of Charlestown we’ve yet to see it. In fact, not only has it featured in many a film and TV series, but it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The port is an extension of St Austell, which would be a handy place to stay as a base for visiting two of Cornwall’s biggest attractions.

The Eden Project, a former clay mine converted into a huge “global garden”, spread across 22 glass domes, is just three miles out of town. The Lost Gardens Of Heligan, 200 acres of restored 19th-century gardens, is six miles in the other direction.

And, if you decide to stay in St Austell, consider paying a visit to the renowned St Austell Brewery. You can sample the full range of its beers in the onsite Brewery Tap. And you can book a tour of the brewery, too.

Fowey

Continuing with the Georgian port theme, Fowey (pronounced “Foy”) is a mere seven miles away. Famed for its beaches, coastal walks, boating and lovely harbour, it’s a more compact version of Falmouth. Indeed, it has everything good about Cornwall crammed into bite-sized pieces.

Whitewashed cottages with Cornish blue doors and window frames tumble down through the winding streets to a harbour teeming with tiny fishing boats mingling with yachts, ferries, pleasure boats and kayaks.

Meanwhile, independent shops selling Cornish “delicacies” such as pasties, fudge and cream teas vie with seafood restaurants and historic quayside pubs for your attention.

And, you can combine exploring Fowey with visits to nearby villages, such as Polruan and Bodinnick.

We wish we’d spent more time there, to be honest. In fact, next time we’ll look for house sitting opportunities to enjoy an extended stay.

Polperro

From Fowey, you can get to the gorgeous fishing village of Polperro (seven miles away) by taking the small car ferry to Boddinick and then following the coast road. Otherwise, you’ll need to head inland and then back to the coast (24 miles).

However, don’t expect to be able to park anywhere near the harbour as it’s largely pedestrianised. And where there is street parking, it’s strictly for residents only. Something that clearly irks many locals (as in Port Isaac) judging by the number of makeshift “No parking!!” signs on display. However, there’s a public car park half a mile away at the top of the village.

If Fowey encompasses much of what makes Cornwall special today, Polperro does the same thing but on a smaller scale. And, to use a well-worn phrase, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time.

Things to do here involve wandering around the quaint harbour, filled with a myriad of small, colourful fishing boats, and through its maze of cobbled streets. Along the way, you’ll pass old merchant houses and whitewashed cottages topped with grey slate.

Apart from its fishing heritage, the village was once notable as a smuggling haven. As celebrated in the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling & Fishing, housed in a 19th century ex-pilchard factory.

And no doubt those smugglers and fishermen of yesteryear drank Cornish ale and swapped stories in the excellent Blue Peter Inn, right beside the harbour. Nowadays, it’s a much more family-friendly place with tables and benches outside overlooking the harbour.

Although Polperro remains a working fishing village, it’s also very popular with tourists. And, so it seems, Airbnb owners. Like elsewhere in Cornwall, second home ownership from out-of-towners is a thorny subject. And we’ll admit, our hearts sank (if not surprised) as we walked past rows of historic cottages with requisite key safes in situ.

Cawsand & Kingsand

And finally, before the coast road leaves Cornwall for neighbouring Devon, the twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand are also worth visiting. Although, if you’ve been to most of the places we’ve already described in this article, you won’t find much difference here.

Clusters of whitewashed and pastel-coloured cottages? Check. A reputation for 18th and 19th-century smuggling? Of course. Loads of tourists? Well actually, no!

This corner of Cornwall seems to have escaped the summer hordes,  attracting day-trippers from Plymouth (Devon) instead. So, if a more relaxed Cornwall experience is a priority for you, then these two side-by-side villages are worth considering.

Final thoughts on our Cornwall road trip

So there you have it. We believe that by the time you’ve completed this road trip, you’ll have experienced the very best of coastal Cornwall. And, of course, you could extend it into neighbouring Devon, with its similar offering of olde-worlde fishing villages, great beaches and cliff-top coastal walks.

Expect the notorious British weather to scupper your outdoor plans on any given day. And allow plenty of time to get around. During the peak summer season, caravans, camper vans, rental cars and lorries all jostle for supremacy on the busy A-roads.

And be prepared to negotiate your way past oncoming traffic on winding, single-track country lanes littered with blind bends, tall hedgerows and international motorists who are driving on British lanes for the very first time.

Don’t say you haven’t been warned!

What did you think? Do you have any further recommendations for a Cornwall road trip? We’d love to hear from you so please add your comments below.